Collecting Antique Coach Bags: A Fashionista’s Guide

When it comes to timeless style, it’s tough to beat sporting an antique Coach bag on your shoulder. But where do you find the iconic It Girl purses? How can you be sure what you’re buying is the real deal? Answer all these questions and more today.

Why is Vintage Luxury the New Trend?

There’s no doubt about it—antique designer bags have always been considered a collector’s item. But have you noticed that the younger generations have become obsessed with hunting down secondhand designs at thrift stores?

Whether it’s wanting to shop more sustainably or seeing these previously owned designs as status symbols, rather than buying new, purchasing a vintage purse seems to be all the rage. Why not join in on the fun?

The History of Coach

Coach may have been founded in 1941, in a New York City loft, but it wasn’t until the early ‘60s that the brand began designing women’s handbags. Inspired by the durability and design of baseball gloves, Lillian and Miles Cahn (along with six other artisans) created a collection of 12 purses, each made from high-quality tan leather and exemplifying excellent stitch work.

A couple of years into their success, they hired Bonnie Cashin. It was she who introduced the turn-lock brass toggle hardware, vibrant colors, striped cotton interiors, and functional silhouettes that the company continues to be known for today. In the next few decades, as Lew Frankfort took over as CEO, Coach became known as the affordable luxury brand, with flagship stores and expansions securing its spot in fashion history for good.

What Year is Considered Vintage for Coach Bags?

If the Coach bag was made before the year 2006, it can be officially labeled as vintage (though some colloquially use the word antique). Dedicated collectors may consider the “at least 20 years old” rule for vintage clothing and accessories to be too recent, instead preferring designer bags from the ‘90s, ‘80s, ‘70s, and earlier. Each era will have its own expected value, but what antique designer bags you collect is up to you.

Are Antique Coach Bags Worth Anything?

If you’re wondering how much of an investment an antique designer bag is, you may be surprised! Antique Coach bags can resell anywhere between $50 to $300, with limited edition designs going for multiple thousands of dollars. Learning what affects the price of an antique designer handbag is part of the thrill.

The overall value of a bag depends heavily on the age, condition, rarity, and model. If you stumble across a more common design, such as the City Bag or the Court, it will likely be priced on the lower end. If you happen to find one of the more uniquely shaped antique designer bags at the Highland vendor mall, such as the Ergo, or something with brightly colored leather, as were popular in the ‘70s, you might’ve struck gold.

The Most Collectible Antique Designer Bags from Coach:

• 1960s Double Pocket Duffle: designed by Bonnie Cashin, features two coin purse clasp pockets on the front with striped cloth linings, usually listed for upwards of $1,000

• 1960s Pony Express Pouch Bag: designed by Bonnie Cashin, similar to Y2K purses with a crescent-moon shape and iconic metal buckles, found for around $1,000

• 1960s Scissor Frame Tote Bag: designed by Bonnie Cashin, resembles a knitting caddy with exaggerated curved handles, colorful leather, and a front coin purse pocket, generally listed at over $1,000

• 1970s Saddle Bag: debuted in 1972, available in warm leather hues with a curved bottom, fold-over flap, and structured cross-body strap, often sold for upwards of $4,000

• 1970s The Federal Shoulder Bag: created in 1972, identifiable by its boxy flap-closure and Presidential seal embossed on the front flap, typically found between $1,000 and $3,000

• 1970s Suspender Crossbody: made to mimic simple menswear of the time, with a twist lock enclosure and subtle rectangular shape, usually listed between $1,000 and $2,000

• 1990s Winnie Top Handle Bag: one of the most valuable antique Coach bags from more recent decades, with a utilitarian, briefcase style, sturdy top handle, and small size, sold at just under $1,000

Where’s the Best Place to Look for an Antique Coach Bag?

While you have an okay chance at finding an authentic antique Coach bag on an online auction website, nothing beats visiting your local antique mall and searching in person. With hundreds of vendors in a mall-style store, each specializing in different collectible items, your odds of finding the antique designer bag of your dreams skyrocket. Make sure you take your time browsing every single booth and showcase—you never know what’s waiting in the nooks and crannies!

How Can You Spot a Counterfeit Antique Coach Bag?

Unfortunately, as happens with all antique designer bags, the world is full of counterfeits and unofficial replicas of Coach designs. The last thing you want is to be tricked into spending a fortune on a completely worthless design. Luckily, once you know what to look for, learning how to tell when an antique Coach bag is fake is easy.

Start by examining the actual materials of the antique designer bag. If the bag’s main material feels stiff, plasticky, or overly shiny, it’s likely not made with the same glove-tanned leather the company is renowned for using. The hardware should be made of either solid brass or high-quality plated metal. If the clasps and buckles feel hollow or lightweight, it’s definitely a fake. The more you shop for antique Coach bags, the better you’ll become at noticing how cheaply made inauthentic models look and feel.

Top 3 Tips for Identifying an Authentic Antique Coach Bag:

• Tip 1: Examine the creed patch (the leather square embossed with a story and serial number) in the interior of the antique designer bag. If it has crisp, aligned lettering and clearly identifiable serial numbers, you’ve probably found an actual antique Coach bag.

• Tip 2: Check the bag’s country of origin. True antique Coach bags will often say “Made in New York City” or “Made in USA,” though later models were produced in China, Hungary, and Costa Rica. If the label says it was made elsewhere, like Korea, for instance, it should raise an immediate red flag.

• Tip 3: If you’re buying from a reputable vendor at a mall, ask if they can provide official verification documents upon purchase. Trustworthy sellers will have already done the due diligence of determining whether their selection of antique designer bags is real or not.

Everyone deserves a bit of luxury! Now that you have a baseline understanding of how to find an authentic antique Coach bag, you’re ready to take to the aisles of your favorite Melbourne antique mall. Start your search today.